"Friendship: The ship that never sinks!"
On November 8th, after finishing up with Abel Tasman, Will and I picked up three happy (and a little jet lagged) travelers at a weird strip-mall type cafe in Christchurch. I was so excited as we drew closer to see three of the best people I know, I was jumping up and down and dancing in the van. The jokes started immediately, and we packed our three friends into Big Red (cozy fit, to say the least!) and drove to a peninsula just south of Christchurch to stay at a cute farm hostel on recommendation from another dear friend (Dylan) in Akaroa. The days that followed saw us exploring Lake Tekapo, Aoraki, Wanaka, Milford Sound, both Fjordland and Mt. Aspiring National Park, and Queenstown. We purposely reserved these places for our time with our friends, as they're the spots that everyone tells you are MUST sees.
...But you've heard a lot from myself and Will, why not let them fill you in? Our guest bloggers for this post are our fellow travelers. Kevin, who tends to run up and down mountains, often has a boundless/restless energy (but knows his limits), and who can whip up a delicious meal for five in no time at all. Alyssa, who pushes herself harder than anyone to achieve a goal, is a giggle and heat wave factory, and is the best hiking partner anyone could ask for. And Andrew, who leads us into the most spontaneous fun, can strike up a genuine conversation with just about any human we meet (and some lambs), and make us laugh more than pretty much anyone else.
I will say this- our hearts were left so full as our dear friends departed. From sunny Akaroa, to majestic Mt. Cook; from the cool vibes in Wanaka, to the foggy and awe-inspiring Routeburn Trek, from the misty cliffs of Milford Sound, all the way to fun-loving Queenstown... Andrew, Alyssa, and Kevin made this leg of our journey so fun and so filled with laughter and spontaneity. It reminded me of why I love these humans so much, and why friendship is so important in life. In the days after these vibrant souls left us, we felt a little odd at the empty space left in both the van and our lives, but so grateful for the energy and memories they left behind. They're back in "the real world," and we can only hope we showed them one hell of a good time! We miss them so (read: COME BACK!)... so who's visiting next? :)
But enough of the gushy stuff, I'll let them catch you up to speed!
Kevin "A Kevin" Meehan
As readers of Laura and Will’s blog, I am sure you are familiar with the feeling of envy that accompanies viewing their gorgeous photos and reading their detailed posts. I was at my desk working on a cloudy San Francisco day when I was presented with the opportunity to join up with their adventure for 2 weeks. The decision was already made before I finished reading all of Laura’s exciting ideas in a then-prospective itinerary.
(Apologies on my part for the lack of photos … Andrew and Alyssa took great pictures during our trip and I gratefully pilfer memories from their collections)
The trip was a fun whirlwind of van life, hiking and seeing new places. Laura and Will did most of the driving which was a great move. It was bizarre waking up from a nap and assuming we’d veered into the wrong lane. For the record, the driving was safe and efficient. And "Kvothe Story Time" (Listening to Patrick Rothfuss’ Wise Man’s Fear) makes time fly by. We made our way from Christchurch to a farm hostel that first day. While there, and during the excitement of the US election, we decided to escape to a nearby fishing spot (using fresh mussels for bait) on a beautiful, secluded beach with a real solid bottle of local NZ wine- far away from any news of the results. Upon return, we discovered the news together. While the United States was grappling with ways to communicate across different perspectives, we were on vacation cooking meals with old friends. (The authors of guest posts all voted and have since returned to the United States to thoughtfully engage in political discourse) And yes, the farm hostel had a belligerent goose that haunts my dreams to this day (See DJ High Kicks point 3).
Chopping wood by the boys "Tonga Hut" in Akaroa
Catching a ride with the hostel manager. Andrew was heard asking, "So I should just like, sit behind you like this right?"
At the peak, after a steep hike up the "hills" around the farm hostel. Note Will cheesin' HARD in the background.
"Gone Fishing" while the heated election results came in. Escapism at it's finest!
A fish we all spent way too long deciding whether or not to eat. Tender-hearted Andrew ultimately stepped up and gave the fish another chance at life.
Alyssa and Laura's "Star Gazer" hut at the farm hostel.
Onward to Mt Cook. After a scenic drive to Aoraki/Mt.Cook National Park, the clouds parted on our first day for a beautiful hike in the valley. On our second day, our rallying cry of “Mueller hut no matter what!” became “Let’s not get trapped on a mountain without food!” due to fickle Mother Nature. The weather convinced us to climb down, and get an extra day in Wanaka. We were at a hostel right on Lake Wanaka., which is surrounded by beautiful mountains on all sides. We had a great couple days relaxing in a room with a bathroom, a fully stocked kitchen and access to laundry. It recharged us to get back on the road, see some more sights (driving range, Puzzle World, Milford Sound!) and gear up (literally) for our big trek.
Andrew taking in the unreal colors of Lake Tekapo.
The gorgeous Hooker Valley Track in Aoraki/Mt.Cook National Park. Aoraki is the Maori name for Mt. Cook, which was later named after Captain Cook.
One of the suspension bridges on the Hooker Valley Track.
Pretty good looking crew, in front of the actually stunning Aoraki/Mt. Cook. We were lucky to see her, as she tends to be shy and hide behind the clouds... some visitors never get this view!
The grueling Muller Hut Track. Amid shouts from the gentlemen of "Mueller Hut No Matter What!" could be heard quiet statements from the ladies of, "It's bad weather, we're all going back down." The crew decided we should at least get to the snow line for some fun!
Alyssa modeling in the snow. We threw snowballs and went sledding down themountain!
A Kevin crushing a ridge.
Eventually, we got to Routeburn … a hike that was truly magical. The clouds loomed over us and rained lightly, but the hiking was at a good pace, the footing was sure and the way was littered with small wonders: a suspension bridge, a waterfall, or a view peaking out from behind the clouds. The actual hiking was great - the details of a trip like this are forgotten when you imagine it: the chilly crispness of the air, the smell of pine trees, just how savory cheap sausage and (real) cheese can taste after a couple hours of hiking … The hiking was a much-appreciated respite from daily life.
On the Routeburn trek we stayed in backcountry huts, staffed with one Hut Warden each. At Lake Makenzie hut, the warden had been in the employ of said hut for 15 years, and has a firey passion for bringing back the native birds that have been decimated by invasive species like rats, possums, and stoats. A quick aside for stoats … stoats are calculating, maniacal anarchists. They are devastating makers of mischief and messing with the natural order of things. The indigenous birds of New Zealand are on a road to extinction because of the mammals that were brought in from other lands. We need to go to war with stoats, those evolutionary frankensteins. To learn more about and donate to the mission of Evan the Hut Warden, visit: http://www.doc.govt.nz/about-us/our-partners/our-regional-partners/routeburn-and-upper-hollyford-restoration-project/
The crew getting ready to head out for the Routeburn three day trek!
Alyssa on the side track to Key Summit. The mountains peaked out for Alyssa and Laura here, but as you can tell most of the day was wet, misty, and very eerie.
Right outside our hut front door, Lake MacKenzie.
Admiring the views once the rain dispersed on the second day.
Andrew and Will literally RAN up the mountain when the sun came out to get this shot!
Buds on a mountain!
In the downtime, many games were played in the hut. Like Cribbage on Will's Herro Leather belt! (Visit www.herroleather.com to get yours, just in time for Christmas presents!)
The view from the Routeburn Falls hut, our home for the second night of the trek.
The Routeburn hike ended on great weather … that I hope one of my co-writers documented in picture form. That was simply beautiful. And we spent a final night together in #TreatYourself fashion in Queenstown.
The flight back left me thinking about the things we were lucky enough to do in our time in New Zealand. New Zealand is a gorgeous country with great hikes, but that’s probably not the reason I was so quick to join the adventure for 2 weeks. In our traveling van, I was able to follow along to Book 2 of a series that I’d never read before, because all 4 of my companion’s participated in an hour-long retelling of book 1 of the series (1000 page epic "The Name of The Wind"). With the hiking, we were able to divvy up our supplies to share the load and spend our mornings discussing any matter of interest, from large-scale life choices to favorite old-school video games (I’ve been told to check out Super Monkey Ball…). During downtimes we were able to share a boatload of laughter and games with new people and places — including (but not limited to) Heads Up, hidden coin games, and karate kick dancing. We had some of the best views in the world for a couple weeks, and some better company. New Zealand is lucky to have the unbridled enthusiasm and genuine kindness of Laura and Will for the next couple months. Thanks for hosting us!
Queenstown!
#TreatYoSelf Night one, a nice apartment right on the waterfront in Queenstown
Queenstown Harbor
A moment between friends and teammates, during a heated game of GUESS THE COIN. A great night out in Queenstown for Laura's birthday! Not pictured: a demon in the form of a bronze Moa statue, A bakery open until 2am, and an empty dance floor... except for five definitely exceptional American dancers.
Alyssa "Newly Professional Hiker" Zirk
Alyssa’s "Things I Learned in New Zealand" List:
- When you are the slowest hiker Laura will always look back to make sure you are not dead.
- For the best views, hike with the birthday girl on her birthday and make sure you pray to Pachamama in the rain on a windy cliff.
- If you aren’t super fit (or are a hypochondriac), don’t worry, it only takes about a week and a half of daily hikes before all your ailments mysteriously disappear.
- If someone ever asks you the question “What are you?” the answer is always “A Kevin”.
- Did you know that everywhere you look in New Zealand it is beautiful? Even when you take a picture out of the van window on your Lord of the Rings tour of the dead marshes thinking you are going to get a crappy picture it somehow turns out amazing. Seriously, WTF New Zealand?
- Sometimes in life, there are earthquakes you sleep through, but snorers who wake you up.
- Milford Sound will definitely be cold and rainy, but there is for sure a small possibility you could see a whale (I know because I looked it up on the internet). Caveat- we did not see a whale, still beautiful though.
- Sheep are da bom
- New Zealand is da bom
- Laura, Will, Kevin, and Andrew are da bom
And now, without further ado, what the people really want, PICTURES OF LAURA IN FRONT OF BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPES (one with Will too).
View from the star gazer at the farm hostel.
The crew (sans a Kevin taking it easy) did the very challenging Isthmus Peak track!
Admiring views! Alyssa would describe them as "da bom."
Little LOTR humor on the way down.
Laura had to add one of Alyssa here, she wasn't sure about Isthmus peak, but she absolutely conquered it! Old torn calf injuries, eat your heart out!
A very windy and wet day on Milford Sound... where it rains 255 days a year!
Routeburn Track!
Over the saddle (Harris Saddle) were some visible mountains!
One happy birthday Hiker.
On Alyssa's "extra day" in New Zealand, she and Laura went on a Lord of the Rings Tour...
...Snapped this photo out the van window...
... and generally treated her fine self!
Andrew "DJ High Kicks" Jesien
Hello! It’s an honor and a privilege to contribute to Haffsway Around The World. In an effort to keep this short and sweet, I decided to also take a page from Laura’s book and just add some things that I learned and words of advice from two weeks in New Zealand:
- New Zealand is absolutely gorgeous, albeit artificial. The colors are actually fake, and not many people know that. Something about a massive food coloring conspiracy or something. Will knows the details on this.
- Laura is 29. Laura has new potential career paths as travel advisor/backpacking guide/cook. She’s very good.
- Onuku hostel has a rabid goose that takes no prisoners, BEWARE. Also, don’t chop their wood without asking. They don’t like that.
- We are all unable to watch a large fish slowly suffocate. Kevin caught a 16-inch fish in the ocean (possibly a dolphin but who knows). There were about three minutes of angsty discussion about throwing it back or keeping it for meat while it was gasping for air and we couldn’t take it anymore and I threw it back. WHEWWWW. We then all happily walked back to the kitchen to cook our 2 lbs of prepared chicken breast.
- Kevin can absorb (with full comprehension) a 900-page book within about 15 minutes of us describing it to him.
- There’s something truly magical about a suspension bridge in the middle of the woods overlooking a giant valley.
- It rains in New Zealand rather often. Don’t buy that spray that says it will re-coat your rain gear, because it’s actually just cleverly advertised dairy milk.
- “Mike Pence None the Richer” is a good cover-band name.
- The yellow base is super hard to get to in the human maze. Puzzle world was a must.
- Donald Trump is our president. Therefore I suspect someone may have (--"Wise Man's Fear" Spoiler Removed), thus plunging humanity into a dark existence. KVOTHE WE NEED YOU.
- If you are an aspiring DJ in Queenstown, don’t EVER insult the five of us about our clapping rhythm into your microphone. We will ruin the rest of your night, make everyone leave your dance floor, and spend 30 minutes doing jumping jacks and violent karate kicks to your crappy house music.
- I have wonderful adventurous friends and I’m a lucky guy.
Misty Milford Sound.
Friends for life
Our 90s band photo, care of a Kevin.
A Kevin and Andrew on Routeburn, passing one of the many waterfalls.
This is a Kevin, on top of a Moa.
Very good friends in a very good place :)